Saraghrar is a group of the 4th highest independent massif in the Hindukush mountain range of Chitral-Pakistan. The entire Saraghrar massif is a huge, irregular stretched plateau at elevation around 7000m (22966ft), lying above vertical granite and ice faces, which protect it all around. Its distinct summits are poorly identified, and information gathered from various expeditions that have visited the area is often misleading.
In 1958 a British Expedition led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the Main Summit 7349m. This expedition was stopped by the death of a member, P.S Nelson.
The year after, on August 24th 1959, the North and the Main Summit 7349m were climbed for the 1st time by an Italian expedition led by Fosco Maraini, including Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio and Professor Carlo Alberto Pinelli. Their route ascended via the Niroghi Glacier on the North East of the massif.
On August 24th 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, member of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro (Mountaineering Club of Hitotsubashi University) reached the South Summit 7307m for the first time by the Roshgol Glacier.
In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka Climbing Club) led by Akiyama Reiski, climbed the South West peak 7184m for the first time on July 29th.
Two Catalan expeditions in 1975and 1977 tried the North West I summit 7300m via a rocky route, through the Roshgol (Terich valley) side but they did not reach the top.
On August, 1982, another Catalan Expedition, led by Juan Lopez, other members Enrique Lucas Liop Nil Bohigas Martorell reached up to 7200m the North West II summit 7250m.
In 2005, 5 members of a Swiss Expedition from (Neuchatel Mountaineering Club) led by Jean Michel Zweiacker reached the South East summit 7208m for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sebastian Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24th: Marc Belanger and Jean Michel Zweiacker on July 29th) via South face. This route is the easiest one to any > 7000m peak in the region. It is known to be the safest route and also easy to access i.e. only 2 days trek to the Base Camp.
Todate 2005, there are 13 peaks of this massif are explored, all above 7000m. 6 of the 13 are still unclimbed- including the Central peak 7330m.
Unclimbed Peaks of Saraghrar Massif
Saraghrar Central …………….7330m
Saraghrar North West I……... 7300m
Saraghrar South III …………...7280m
Saraghrar North West II ……..7250m
Saraghrar South East II ……..7185m
Saraghrar South II …………...7109m
Web page was started with Mobirise